Besides the obvious change of sailing downwind (due mostly to changes in wind direction, since we're still sailing mostly in the same direction) there are other subtle hints: the water is noticeably colder, and steadily dropping, the waves are building behind us, the sun isn't nearly as intense (evidenced mostly by a more sparing consumption of sun block) Our days of barbecue evenings and warm tropical nights are coming to a close.
In it's place is a new kind of excitement; the anticipation of nearing home. Being out here for a whole week really changes your perspective. The terrestrial world sometimes seems like a distant memory and this watery island of constant motion and constant vigil is the only life possible.
Last night we had perfect stargazing conditions. The moon rose late, the clouds kept their distance so that we had an unfettered view of the night sky. The constellations burned above -- Scorpio, and Leo were some of the most impressive in the southern sky; Draco and the corona Borealis opposed them to the north. We saw lots of planets: Saturn in the evening, then Venus and Mars side by side preceded an amazingly luminous sunrise.
During the night the wind and waves chased us, and we absolutely flew. It was exhilarating -- a herald of more to come.
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